Saturday, September 08, 2007

ISHI WILDERNESS: Harrowing Descent to Mill Creek Canyon in Yahi Yana Ancestral Territory Worthwhile Despite Travails, Obstacles, a Few Disappointments

I'm high above on a streamside bank, overlooking a sunlit stretch of pooling water, peering through binoculars hoping to spot our furry friend, the river otter. This august morning, silent but for Mill Creek's melodious churning, invites prayer and meditation.
I'm content to stand here, carefree and lighthearted, engaging in what formal spiritual practice I can muster. The mind soon wanders: I imagine a seasonal encampment of the nomadic Yahi Yana, Ishi's people, in this very meadow.
Staring out at fast-flowing Mill Creek, I'm lured into a hypnotic vision: the vibrant spirit and sheer presence of the peaceful hunter-gatherers  the aborigines of what is today called Lassen National Forest in Butte and Tehama counties – pervades my bones.
Themselves respectful visitors to these changing landscapes, the Yahi Yana and related cultural groups came and went, co-existed, migrated seasonally, lived on and off, undisturbed, for 3,000 years, right here.
You could say they knew their way around these parts. Then, by the mid-to-late 1800's, like so many of America's native inhabitants, they were extirpated like vermin by Manifest Destiny-driven European "settlers".
Uh, make that invaders!
Sudden, furtive movements catch my attention. I refocus the binos just in time to see a furry brown head bobbing in and out of the water, soon joined by a frisky mate. The two bewhiskered creatures are now hard at play, rolling over on their backs, spinning, diving, and coming up to playfully torpedo one another.
One gives the other a quick whack with her thick tapered tail. I'm pleased and amazed at the sighting. Although Lutra canadensis may be cute and cuddly-looking, be forewarned, swimmers, when dipping in otter pools  defensive mothers will bite your ear off if feeling threatened by your invasive presence.
Welcome to the Ishi Wilderness.
It's not for everybody.
One guy hated it so much he packed up and left after a short hike, abandoning plans not so much due to rattlesnakes, ticks, poison oak and heat, but to boredom.
In marked contrast, another chap from Minnesota has been flying to California for a decade to visit the Ishi nearly every year. Take your pick. It probably depends a lot on the time of year.
But if you're anything like Gambolin' Man and love a rich archaeological heritage in a stunning, isolated setting of rugged volcanic formations, soaring red basalt cliffs, and riparian splendor in desert-like conditions, then the Ishi will rock your world.
It'll certainly rock your vehicle.
No one said getting to the Ishi Wilderness was a drive in the park. Getting there does indeed require the right vehicle, but even more than that, it demands the right attitude  which will get you there with the wrong vehicle. No one is forcing you to go to the Ishi.
The thing is: you just really gotta wanna go there, see it, feel it, experience it.
I had to convince Gambolin' Gal, as I did with some friends several years ago when they visited from Wisconsin for a camping trip, that it would be well worth the effort.
Despite travails, obstacles and a few disappointments.
The drive in is one tough mother-humper! (Even in the right vehicle.) But don't let that stop you. The key  just go slow. That becomes my anxious mantra  just go slow.
Besides, what's the hurry?
The scenery becomes increasingly dramatic with vermillion cliffs lining Mill Creek's rim 1500 ft. up from the canyon floor, providing scenic orgasms and, more importantly, nesting sites for hawks, eagles and falcons.
No doubt about it, though  the rigorous drive in requires sharp focus and steady nerves. Even in the right vehicle. Black Rock campground is nearly 30 miles from the nearest main road.
Be forewarned, the last 20 of which traverse a barely maintained, rutted-out, narrow fire road up and over three mighty ridges  the drainages of Antelope Creek's pretty forks  with a final 3-mile, 1500 ft. descent, the harrowing, winding, steep stretch to Mill Creek canyon.
To lighten things up, I joke to Gambolin' Gal, rounding a killer rock-strewn rutted out hairpin of a bend, with a 1000 ft. drop-off to her right:
"Don't you worry, baby! I'll keep 'er on all four wheels!"
Eventually, none worse the wear, we make it safely and soundly. I let out a huge whoop as I shut off the engine in Black Rock's desolate campground situated next to hard-flowing Mill Creek.
YES! All to ourselves!
Which is to be expected, after all, given the amount of time and effort required to get here.
So far as Gambolin' Man's concerned, this Mill Creek is the king of California's 100 Mill Creeks. It is one of the Sierra Nevada  Shasta Cascade's last free flowing foothill streams, and 32 miles are under consideration for National Wild and Scenic River System status.
It lays claim to having the best aquatic habitat in the mountain range's 100 major watersheds. That's saying something!
It begins a meandering 49-mile journey in higher-up Lassen country and flows unimpeded to join with the Sacramento River in California's great central valley.
High above loom volcanic cliffs, springs, oases of green difficult to find, and famous "pineries"  dense stands of Ponderosa pines growing on high ledges left untouched during Mill Creek's carving of the canyon.
Its boulder-and-log strewn waters harbor significant runs of winter steelhead trout and spring Chinook salmon, who swim up to 6,000 ft. to spawn.
And no small wonder that river otters also call the chill waters home, and with 150,000 hairs per square inch, their fur coats allow the aquatic weasels to roam freely up and down Mill Creek in blithe search of fishy gourmand delights and other critter canapés  crayfish, frogs, snakes.
The canyon extends through the heart of the blazing hot badlands, whose 41,000+ acres abut range and ranch lands and encompass a State Game Refuge, protective of California's largest migratory Tehama deer herd, black bear, wild hog, mountain lions, coyotes, bobcats and rabbits, not one of which we encounter.
With the exception of a month or two in spring and fall (when temperatures are moderate and ticks, rattlesnakes and poison oak are less abundant and threatening), the Ishi Wilderness remains a mostly inhospitable place.
If you'll believe all the web sites. Nearly every posting describes it as a land:
" . . . incised by wind and water, dotted with basaltic outcroppings, caves, and bizarre pillar lava formations."
All warn of temperatures in the shade surpassing 100 degrees, and of disease-carrying bloodsuckers (ticks and mosquitoes), lethal venom injectors (rattlesnakes and scorpions), and miserable rash inducers (poison oak, stinging nettle). Not to mention bothersome fox tails and velcro-like burrs.
Oh, such constant worries! Plus, it's tinderbox dry and hot as Hades! For chrissakes!  what are we doing here? We're told, of course, NOT to take our passenger car down there, an act of pure tomfoolery, and certainly we're exhorted NOT to go there at this time of year  in the dead of August  for fear of succumbing to heat stroke or dehydration.
Or getting bitten by a rattlesnake. Or worse. Well, fact is, summers are downright deadly in the Ishi Wilderness. Minus the cacti, it might as well call itself a desert, for it is an unforgiving, harsh, exposed landscape where you don't want to screw up or find yourself unprepared, no matter the time of year.
Do not take the Ishi Wilderness lightly. Enter with respect (and caution!), and the land will welcome and sustain, for there is water out here! Without these spring and snowmelt fed creeks, this place would indeed be a forbidden anti-paradise.
Water makes all the difference in the world . . . the life-sustaining force that brought Ishi and his people to this area for seasonal migrations to gather acorns, hunt deer, rabbit, wildcat, fish, to live peacefully off the fat of the land for millennia.
Until August 29, 1911, when a dazed, starved Ishi  the last existing Yahi Yana individual  was captured in a slaughterhouse corral outside Oroville, California (a locale dripping with irony), bereft of his senses, his strength, his entire past and place in the universe.
Today, an oak tree stands where Ishi was spotted.
On arrival in Black Rock campground, relieved, we let our nerves settle a bit, savoring the baking smells of brush and trees, and soaking in the silent grandeur of the moment. I pop open an ice cold one.
We then pack a lunch and prepare to head out for a hike, even though it's the hottest part of the day. No worries, we're carrying plenty of water, and Mill Creek's refreshing, shady pools, not more than a couple of miles away, await us.
The first part of the hike takes us along a dusty road and through a private ranch  a cattle grazing operation, how yucky  the last thing you'd expect to see out here. But cattle grazing operations are common in our natural resource treasure areas, unfortunately.
Most of the cows are long gone, having been fattened up and shipped off to slaughterhouses, but their dried-up paddies are everywhere along a stretch leading to the lower Ishi meadows. At least it's better than the first time here in late Spring with my Wisconsin friends, when we trudged through wet cow poop mushy terrain  just appalling.
Gambolin' Gal is outright disgusted, wanting to know if I knew beforehand there were cows. I fudge. She barely deigns to swim on this hot day, pointing out that all the polluting waste no doubts seeps into the ground and drains into the creek.
In beauty and cow shit we walk.
We nonetheless spend several hours luxuriating in a quiet pool, exploring leisurely, hanging out on a rocky beach head. Doing what we do best under these circumstances – nothing. During a lull, I hear music and voices, but it's only the river singing, the breeze providing harmony.
The at-once peaceful and unnerving sense of being all alone out here nags constantly at my soulstrings. On the hike back, the sensation becomes a premonition of unwanted reality as we crest a final hill and hear the background boom boom boom  not of the forest grouse  but of some idiot's loud bass technopop reverberating from one of the camping sites 500 ft. from ours.
Crestfallen, as you can imagine, we do our best to ignore this profound and dreaded intrusion, sitting by the river to let that help drown out the awful, alien noise. What's with people? I do my best to not get all righteous and inflamed and go running over to confront the dudes.
Calm down, now, Gambolin' Man, calm down! Drink another ice cold one.
Shortly, two college-age guys approach us; again, I put on my best face of civility. They're actually nice, polite young fellers, and I give them credit for their communication skills, it's just that their idea and our idea of a "good time" is about as antithetical as you can get.
Turns out, he tells us, once a year  and this just happens to be the chosen weekend  he and all his college buddies gather to party down in the sticks, it's like a tradition, you know.
He informs us that about 15 or 20 more revelers are due to arrive later in the evening. Oh, great, I say, so there's going to be a party, loud music? Yeah, he nods, telling us he'd do his best to keep things down and keep everyone grouped in the adjacent camp sites. Wonderful, I tell him  we've driven 20 hard-ass miles to come here for a wilderness experience, and this is our reward?
We thank them anyway and just have to suck it up. In days past, for most of the twentieth century, the Ishi Wilderness remained unvisited, unknown, accessible and interesting enough only to those with a will and a way. But today's SUV / off-road culture makes the going easy, and now anyone with a 4-WD or high clearance vehicle can easily make the trip:
. . . from Yahi to Yahoo . . .
But perfectly suitable terrain for Ishi's people to hide out successfully for nearly half a century before most died off by the early 1900's.
Hopefully, everyone who does visit the Ishi Wilderness today, does so with respect (and caution!). But clearly, not all are in search of peace and quiet, spiritual communion and remote solitude.
Some people are rude and stupid and completely unskilled in the ways of being in nature. May they incur the wrath of Ishi, if such a thing is possible; or shall they be forgiven for their unforgiving ignorance?
For them, nature is just a backdrop in which to get drunk and party down. Which is what they do all night long. Hey, I'm no curmudgeon, no ageist, but this is ridiculous!
Most of the night, there's incessant whooping and hollering, loud and louder music, then it shuts off for a while, then resumes, but in a lower pitch, like they're really concerned and trying to be "good neighbors."
Now, someone has inanely hung a lantern nearby  one of those monster spotlights Gambolin' Man so reviles  so that they can "see" – what?  when they have to pee?
I'd have shot the lights out of it if only I had my .22 handy!
The low brow highlight during the long and torturous night comes with an hour or more of ungodly revving and roaring of engines racing in the night up and down the roads somewhere.
Finally, eventually, deep in a painful fog, the noise ends, the party hardy dudes are down for the count, and all is silent night, but for the cacophonous chirping of a million crickets, the wind caressing the trees and the river gurgling its magical song.
 Aaaah, truly soul-soothing sounds of music to lure us to sleep.
We rise at dawn and decide to depart a day early, no surprise. We spend all morning hiking Mill Creek Trail in the opposite direction, east toward the higher Lassen country. The morning is hot, beautiful, perfect  who says you can't enjoy the Ishi in summertime?
Mill Creek Trail passes through wide open meadows rife with blackberry brambles and oak woodlands hosting wild turkeys, quails, mourning doves, and many songbirds. Little drainages still release jet streams of water down gullies. Big views prevail of the high, basalt cliffs.
Eventually, evidence of little use, the trails peters out into thickets and brush, and we turn around toward the vision, again, of ever-intriguing, impressive, massive Black Rock  also pink, salmon, red and lavender colored  a gigantic plug dome dominating the surroundings with the intimidating presence of a super-powerful Earth force rendering all else tiny and insignificant.
Black Rock, a 250 ft. tall remnant of an ancient volcano whose impenetrable bulk forces the high-volume creek to cut a course around its rock-solid contours, a truly splendiferous thing to behold.
Standing in awe, feeling the spirit of place, the power and energy of it all, watching rugged Mill Creek steamroll around the blackened rock's anchoring bulwarks and plunging headlong through a series of chutes and cascades into a gorgeous pool.
Black Rock surely awes and inspires  and alone warrants the trip in, to stand at this sacred altar of worship for the Yahi Yana, and for those of us who (respectfully) follow in their footsteps.
Seeking to know, find and rediscover our place in the universe.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Too bad about those idiots but your discription makes me want to go there. You painted a great picture.

12/15/2007 6:27 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice pics, too bad I started reading the commentary. What is "nature" to you is someone's workplace, somebody else's backyard, and yes, other peoples' place to go blow off steam, be loud, and otherwise depart from the socially accepted norms. You should have grabbed a beer and joined the partiers; I bet they could have given you directions to some awesome, unpublished sites.

It's really not that wild of an area, either, although the road does suck.

3/28/2008 7:34 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Next time you're there, put on your backpacks and hike up the Mill Creek trail a bit to the back (east) side of the Black Rock. There is a large level campsite there right next to the creek. Its very close to the trailhead and the Black Rock Campground, so you can really load up the packs. I've even packed a case of beer in. Kept it cold in the creek, too. You'll avoid the Yahoos that way.

3/31/2008 2:21 PM  
Anonymous Paleobob said...

I'm going there this weekend, and am concerned about the road- what kind of vehicle did you drive in with?

6/10/2009 10:23 PM  
Blogger Gambolin' Man said...

Paleobob - you will really need a 4-wheel drive or high clearance vehicle. I took in a low clearance passenger vehicle and did $2000 worth of undercarriage damage to it! Not good! Definitely worth renting something if you don't have the requisite vehicle as I allude to in this post. Have fun!

6/11/2009 8:01 AM  
Blogger darlene said...

this was a very good blog. i NEVER comment on these things, but i just wanted to let you know how much i enjoyed your writing and photos. thanks!

7/25/2009 8:14 AM  
Anonymous Steve Kupcho said...

Steve (ret.)

I taught the book, Ishi, Last of His Tribe, for 10 years to my 6th graders here in Mequon, Wisconsin (1990-2000). During our spring break of 1996, my wife, son amd I flew out to San Francisco so I could do some factual research at Cal-Berkley on Ishi and then travel to the Blackrock Campground to see that famous rock that's mentioned in the book. I had a mid-sized rental car and worked my way down that road for five miles. The rocks on the road kept getting bigger and bigger and banging into the undercarriage. I kept getting more and more wary of my quest. We made one turn in the road and there was a stream of water about one foot deep gushing across the road. I decided then and there that I would never see that rock. A good you said I probably saved myself 20,000 dollars of rental car damage. I'm glad I read you Blog. The pictures were fantastic as was your narrative.
I've been retired for 7 years now and I'm getting that "Ishi" itch, so next time I'm out there, I'll be in a rental SUV with a lot of clearance. I want to experience your experience thanks to your wonderful report.

9/07/2009 8:16 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Ishi trails NOT maintained Reply | Edit | Delete

Hasn't voted
We have been hiking Ishi for the past 4 years, it has some super
rock formations and canyons. But we have noticed that the trails
have not been maintained and are slowly disappearing. This year we dropped a car off at mill creek and drove down to deer creek
with the intent to take the maintained trails (as indicated in red on the map we bought from the forest service). As per the map we went in at deer creek hiked to the Deep hole tie trail
from there climbed 1,200 ft out of the canyon where we hit the Moak trail, we followed the Moak along the ridge to a trail called 2E07 which was suppose to take us to the Lassen trail.
Well as per the forest service map and our several GPS units we
reached the area where the supposed 2E07 trail was to split from the Moak! Guess what the Moak trail disappeared into 4 to 6 ft high buck brush and the 2E07 trail was No where to be found. By this time it was 3:30 in the after noon so we set up camp on the ridge and searched the brush for 3 hours there is no
sign of any trail. We spent the night and decided to turn around and go back out the 7 miles we came in. We got to the car and headed back towards mill creek. We stopped at the Moak trail head and found the sign board with nothing on it, we walked the trail approx. 50 ft. where it disappeared into the buck brush.(Humm maintained trail) We continued to the Lassen trail head and looked at the sign board which has the same map we bought from the forest service and that 2E07 trail was shown
as a proposed trail. So the forest service is selling a map that shows maintained trails in (Red) and there map on the lassen sign board says proposed!! Also trees that have fallen on both the deer creek and mill creek trails are still there after 3 years so we had to break trail around this.

I have been trying to find out what rules are as to maintaining these trails? Something seems very wrong as it takes several years for buck brush to grow 4 to 6 ft, high.

Although Ishi has some spectacular views and rock formations
its not going to be seen by anyone if something doesn't start happening to the trails.

We would like to here from other hikers regarding there views on the condition of the trails.

Burney Backpackers

1/17/2010 2:49 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

We also caught the and have photo's
of Cal fire's fire bombers practicing down in the ishi wilderness which is illegal acording to the federal wilderness
rules. All air craft has to be 2000 ft above any wilderness. I contacted the Forest service and I got a call from there air op's people, there accuse was there isn't a wall up in the air telling them where they were! big cover up
I have photo.s of them dumping water down on Deer creek, well what about the residue that is in there water tanks?? that should be good for the fish and natural enviroment.

1/22/2010 7:32 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey I think I was one of those idiots. Sorry about that. We did get a little out of hand that weekend. Our friend fell near the B.R swimming hole and got life flighted out. Then the ranger came by and poured out all of our beers (except for the Canadian Mist). Someone retaliated by then letting the air out of his tires. We then proceeded to bet each other to eat powerbait for money and of course wrestle each other in the dirt. All while listening to crappy rap music into the wee hours of the morning without regard for our neighbors 200 ft away. I really cant forget that weekend. And I am really sorry about that.
This only happened because my friend named Booz-e (go figure) found this place and invited a bunch of drunken college friends. Im sure they will never remember how to get here so dont think this place is always like this.
This place is cool not everyone out there that day was in total disregard. We have been out there usually in groups 3-6 people.This one time we just thought it might be fun to invite alot of people to this great place but it turned into a drunkfest disaster. Lesson learned.

9/09/2010 12:15 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I made a couple of trips to the Ishi Wilderness about 8 years or so ago, and I am sorry to hear that the condition of the roads and trails seems to have deteriorated. I came across your blog by googling "Ishi Wilderness" and I want to go back. As a very novice backpacker I drove to Black Rock Campground in my little Mazda Protege..I remember the water across the road at one point but the rest of the road there was in ok condition. I hiked west down Mill Creek and camped near the river and it was awesome. I then made another trip, driving past Black Rock Campground to the Moak Ridge that was scary in my little car..deep ruts in the road and mud..I was pretty dumb to keep going actually. I did make it and had a beautiful hike along the ridge, but I could not locate a supposed "spring" that was marked on the topo map (very inexperienced hiker at the time) and ended up sleeping on the side of a hill..fortunately I had carried a lot of water in lol. I now have a Ford Escape so sometime next spring I intend to visit this very beautiful area again! Oh and the only Bear I have seen while hiking was on the Mill Creek trail!

9/13/2010 10:23 AM  
Anonymous gene allspaugh said...

I have been hiking in Ishi Wilderness for the last 40 yrs. I hike in the Deer Creek area. It is still untouched today as it has been for hundreds of years. It has always been a well known secret around here, it's just not everyones cup of tea, I can still hike in their without ever seeing a soul. It is and always will be my own Shangrila.

3/08/2011 3:31 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Was out there to scope out the trail in October of 2010. Yes, road is for high clearance vehicles only! We did not hike at that time, but have been told the trails are in bad shape. We encountered many quads and off-road riders that day. Hoping to backpack there in a couple of weeks if we ever get any good weather and before the weeds and critters get bad.

4/16/2011 4:51 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Born and raised in Redding, Ishi is one of my favorite places, the heat and wildlife are not too bad when you've been around em for 30 years.

Some more pictures and report. I wish more people would enjoy and respect our wilderness areas.

4/28/2013 4:02 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

My dad took us up every year when I was a kid. The hiking and fishing were fantastic. Took my wife up on our first anniversary in a 69 Mustang. Took out the lower radiator hose getting down the hill. We coasted in just before dusk. Had a 24 foot RV we drove in in '03 and '04. My son and I had a similar experience to yours in '04, except instead of students we had a very large (25-30) Hispanic family get-together. They rolled in late aftenoon and treated our camp as part of their own. Target shooting a pellet gun til 3:00 am. Music blaring. We didn't dare say anything cause we were badly outnumbered. Packed up and left at 6:00 the next morning. We haven't been back since. I love the area though, and will go back before too long.

3/10/2016 9:46 PM  
Blogger Noreen said...

Thanks for comments. I have definitely learned not to go on weekends.... We just returned from hiking trip out of Black Rock campground yesterday. We drove in from Hwy 32 in a Ford Escape and had no problems at all. The unmarked road down to the campground was the worst..... The other folks came in from Hwy 36 (I went this route around 25 years ago and it was hair-raising) and although they had 4WD, they did not need to use it. They did report drop-offs. Both these routes took about 1.5 hours from the main roads. The lower Mill Creek trail got poison oaky and narrower so we didn't make it all the way to Pape's Place. Will definitely be back. If you take the Hwy 32 route from Chico you will pass a nice monument to Ishi at one of the summits. Google maps directions worked spot on plus there are black arrows on an orange background posted on trees. Don't tell too many other people about the place -- it is so sacred.

10/23/2017 9:29 AM  
Blogger Robert said...

Just got back from Ishi today. It was very beautiful with Mill Creek running strong. At first I tried hiking the Lassen trail with the thought of hiking down to deer creek via Lassen trail and then others. Lassen trail was in poor shape and I couldn't find the trail that was supposed to head towards deer creek so I turned back to my truck and headed to the Mill Creek trailhead. I hiked down Mill Creek along a trail that gradually deteriorated until it ended at a steep 20 foot wide landslide before I made it to Pape place. I was there on weekdays so I only saw one other person.

4/04/2018 12:45 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Long, long lago five of us hippies walked down from black rock all the way down to the valley. It was hilarious, and exhausting, we had drugs of course

1/25/2021 1:43 AM  

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